L'Aquila, Italy

 

Nestled snugly in a valley overlooked by the jagged peaks of the Gran Sasso and Velino-Sorente mountain ranges, Abruzzo’s administrative capital L’Aquila is a winning combination of medieval charm and vivacious contemporary living. Buoyed by a sizeable student population, this upbeat little city – just an hour or two’s drive from Rome - contains an array of attractive palazzi, piazzas and churches, and serves as a wonderful introduction to the vastly under-rated region of Abruzzo.  

It’s a fairly easy city to navigate: the main square, the Piazza del Duomo, acts as a central hub where you can sample the wares of the daily market and soak up the local ambiance at one of the many nearby cafes (the Gran Café della l’Aquila has good breakfasts and a buzzing atmosphere). From there you can indulge in some retail therapy along Vittorio Emanuelle or investigate some of the city’s cultural sights, most of which are accessible by foot.

Among the must-sees are the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle (Fountain of 99 Spouts), which dates back to 1272; the striking Basilicas of San Bernadino and Collemaggio (the latter of which features the Holy Door that Peter from Morrone passed through in 1294 to be crowned Pope); and the sprawling Spanish Fortress, whose linear bulk contains the National Museum of Abruzzo - its collection of sacred art, archaeological artefacts and modern Abruzzese works is a mixed bag but there’s enough to keep you occupied for at least a couple of hours.

Foodies will get a kick out of L’Aquila. Abruzzo is well known for its tasty cuisine – local delicacies include thick chitarra pasta, superlative lamb and mutton sauces, a wide variety of fresh vegetables and pulses – often served up alongside palatable local wines like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (a robust, velvety red) or Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (a consistent, if slightly less impressive white).

L’Antico Borgo, located next to the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, offers a serious selection of classics in a wonderfully rustic environment. For something more innovative and chic, try Il Drappo around the corner (inside Hotel 99 Cannelle); and for a truly special experience check out Vinalia, a world-class enoteca that recently drafted in master-chef William Zonfa to create an imaginative mix of traditional and modern dishes; his slow-roasted lamb (cooked at 66.6 degrees for several hours) and pear and saffron crepes are to die for.

Once you’ve spent a couple of days absorbing L’Aquila’s myriad charms, you’ll likely be ready to head into the rural paradise that is the Abruzzo countryside. Right on the doorstep is the Gran Sasso National Park: a thirty minute drive (buses available) will bring you to the peaceful pastures of the Campo Imperatore plateau. Known locally as Little Tibet, this area is dominated by the imperious Gran Sasso massif, the lower slopes of which are covered in field grass and meadow flowers, grazed in season by flocks of sheep. It’s incredible to think this idyllic landscape lies so close to the city, but it does.

The Gran Sasso boasts plenty of great hiking and climbing opportunities, with well-placed mountain huts catering for longer walks and overnight stays. The almost 200 miles (320 km) of trails can be explored by foot, on bike, by horse – even by car. The Grand Highway of the Gran Sasso runs between the Gran Sasso peak to the Monti della Laga and offers the chance of a scenic drive around this bucolic wonderland, passing by highlights such as the archeological site of Amiternum and the fabulous Lake Compotosto,

The three main peaks of the Gran Sasso – the Corno Grande (which at 2,912 meters is the highest peak in the Apennines), Corno Piccolo and Pizzo Intermésoli are snow-covered for much of the year, and Campo Imperatore is in fact home to Italy's oldest continuously operating commercial ski area. As well as 15km of trails and modern equipment, the resort also boasts some great history: it was here that Benito Mussolini was imprisoned until rescued in a daring Nazi commando operation.

Of course you’ll be needing somewhere to base yourself to explore both L’Aquila and the Gran Sasso, and the city has several decent options. Overlooking those famous fountains is Hotel 99 Cannelle, a boutique spot with modern rooms and the classy Il Drappo restaurant; Hotel Duomo is a more down-to-earth (but atmospheric) three-star located in a renovated 18th Century building; while those seeking something splashier should consider the elegant Villa Dragonetti. It’s a few minutes out of town, but its extravagant 18th century murals, attractive grounds and venerated restaurant guarantee a memorable stay.